Shown here is a diverse array of fine vintage designer jewelry sold during Bonhams’ Salon Jewelry & Watches auction held Sept. 30, 2013, simulcast in San Francisco and Los Angeles. The well-attended sale earned a total of $1.45 million. ■
Enamel and diamond brooch, circa 1880, composed of an enamel portrait in a rose-cut diamond surround, backed by a starburst of additional rose-cut diamonds; mounted in silver-topped 10 karat gold; 2 1/2-inch diameter, $9,375. All images courtesy of Bonhams.
For close-up views of many more pieces of fine designer and antique jewelry, clip on the images below. All images courtesy Bonhams.
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- Diamond, sapphire, and enamel frog motif brooch; gross weight approx. 26.4 grams; mounted in 18-karat gold; 2 inches long, $1,125.
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- Drusy quartz, agate, mother-of-pearl, carved moonstone and orange sapphire owl brooch, Sandrajean Wainwright; owl carved by Hans Pauly; with maker’s mark for Sandrajean Wainwright; estimated total orange sapphire weight: 1.0 carat; mounted in 18-karat gold; 2 3/4 inches long, $2,750.
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- Ruby, emerald and enamel leopard brooch accented with carved leaf-shaped emeralds; estimated total ruby weight 3.0 carats; gross weight approx. 69.1 grams; mounted in 18-karat gold; 2 3/4 inches long, $1,625.
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- Antique ruby, diamond and enamel bracelet, circa 1880, composed of oval and circular-shaped star and cat’s eye ruby cabochons accented by single-cut diamonds and rubies; estimated total ruby weight 9.0 carats; estimated total diamond weight 2.25 carats; mounted in 14-karat bicolor gold; 7 inches long, $12,500.
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- Enamel and diamond brooch, circa 1880, composed of an enamel portrait in a rose-cut diamond surround, backed by a starburst of additional rose-cut diamonds; mounted in silver-topped 10 karat gold; 2 1/2-inch diameter, $9,375.
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- Diamond and enamel star motif bangle bracelet, circa 1890; estimated total diamond weight 4.25 carats; mounted in 14-karat gold; 2 1/4-inch diameter, $11,875.
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- 14-karat multi-color gold hunter cased fob watch of floral motif, Elgin, circa 1890; lever set; dial with Roman chapters, subsidiary seconds and blued steel hands; 40mm diameter, $938.
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- Diamond, ruby and sapphire ballerina brooch, composed of various-shaped rose and round brilliant-cut diamonds accented with circular-cut rubies and sapphires and single-cut diamonds; estimated total ruby weight 4.0 carats; estimated total sapphire weight 1.75 carats; mounted in 14-karat bicolor gold; 2 13/16 inches long, $4,000.
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- A seed pearl and high-karat gold filigree bangle bracelet, seed pearls measuring approximately 2.5mm; gross weight approximately: 94.8 grams; diameter: 2 3/16 inches. $4,375
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- An 18 karat gold multi-strand bib necklace composed of 14 strands; weighing approximately: 229.6 grams; length: 16 1/2 inches. $12,500
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- Pair of blue topaz, colored cultured pearl and diamond pendant earrings, Bulgari; pink button-shaped pearls; oval-shaped blue topaz cabochons; signed Bvlgari; mounted in 18-karat gold; 1 1/8 inches long, $3,500.
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- A multi-color sapphire and diamond bracelet pavé-set with various-shaped multi-color sapphires, including pink, purple, green and yellow, interspersed with rose-cut diamonds; estimated total multi-color sapphire weight: 125.60 carats; estimated total diamond weight: 1.10 carats; length: 7 1/4 inches. $12,500
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- A fancy yellow diamond and diamond necklace the heart-shaped natural fancy yellow diamond, weighing 2.03 carats, suspended from a chain of collet-set round brilliant-cut diamonds; remaining diamonds weighing approximately: 2.00 carats total; mounted in 18 karat bicolor gold; length: 18 1/8 inches. $11,250
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- Opal and diamond ring, centering an oval-shaped opal, weighing 26.78 carats, within a round brilliant-cut diamond surround; estimated total diamond weight 1.75 carats; mounted in 14-karat white gold; size 7 1/4, $10,625.
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- A diamond and moonstone flower motif headband, round-shaped rainbow moonstone cabochons measuring approximately: 5.0 to 4.9mm; estimated total diamond weight: 1.00 carat; mounted in 18 karat white gold with 14 karat bicolor gold flowers and mountings; length: 13 1/4 inches. $4,375
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- A fire opal and colored diamond ring, modified rectangular cushion-cut fire opal measuring approximately: 24.3 x 19.4 x 15.1mm; estimated total diamond weight: 1.00 carat; mounted in 18 karat gold; size: 7 1/2, $18,750
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- A diamond solitaire ring, round brilliant-cut diamond weighing approximately: 3.60 carats; mounted in platinum and 14 karat gold; size: 7 1/4, $11,250
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- A yellow sapphire and diamond ring, centering a cut-corner square step-cut yellow sapphire, weighing 6.57 carats, with shield-shaped diamond shoulders; mounted in platinum; size: 7, $11,875
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- Pair of diamond starfish earrings, Tiffany & Co.; signed Tiffany & Co.; estimated total diamond weight 1.10 carats; mounted in platinum; 7/8-inch long, $3,750.
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- Diamond and 18-karat gold wide bangle bracelet of openwork design; signed Esha; estimated total diamond weight 6.0 carats; gross weight approx. 88.5 grams; 2 1/8-inch diameter, $9,375.
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- Turquoise, lapis lazuli, sapphire and diamond bracelet; estimated total sapphire weight 10.0 carats; estimated total diamond weight 3.85 carats; mounted in 18-karat gold; 7 3/4 inches long, $10,625
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- A gem-set bracelet, Gübelin, including: garnet, peridot and blue topaz; signed Gübelin, no. 40C-0468; mounted in 18 karat gold; length: 7 1/4 inches. $3,500
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- Colored cultured pearl, cultured pearl, opal, paste and diamond necklace central diamond weighing approx. 1.30 carats; remaining diamonds weighing approx. 2.75 carats total; gross weight approx. 225.8 grams; mounted in 18-karat and 22-karat gold; 21 1/4 inches long, $11,250.
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- Pair of retro jadeite jade and diamond earclips, circa 1945, bi-shaped jadeite jade measuring approx. 13.3 and 13.2mm; estimated total diamond weight 1.30 carats; mounted in 14-karat white gold; 7/8 inch long, $9,375.
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- Pink tourmaline, pink and blue sapphire and diamond multi-strand bracelet composed of nine strands of faceted pink tourmaline beads; oval-shaped blue sapphire cabochon weighing approx. 15.0 carats; estimated total diamond weight 1.95 carats; mounted in silver; 7 1/2 inches long, $9,375. All images courtesy of Bonhams.
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- Pair of pink sapphire viola flower earclips, Fred Leighton; signed Fred Leighton; mounted in 18-karat white gold; 1 1/4 inches long, $3,500.
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- Printed enamel bangle bracelet, Michaela Frey; mythological motif; composed of yellow-tone metal; signed Michaela Frey Wien; 2 7/16-inch diameter, $2,000.
For much more information on the history and value of exquisite jewelry, pick up a copy of Christie Romero’s “Warman’s Jewelry Identification & Price Guide, 5th edition,” (Krause Books, 2013, $29.99) available at KrauseBooks.com or by calling Krause Books at 855-864-2579.