Vintage Treasures of the Sea

Current fashion trends don’t usually drive my jewelry purchasing decisions; I buy and wear what I like, bottom line. But every now and then, today’s designers revive a style that I personally deem timeless. Over the past couple of years, it’s been a bevy of jewelry inspired by the ocean and all the natural wonders beached by the tide. As a cruise lover, this is a trend I can get behind.

I’m not talking nautical (even though some fashion writers use that term incorrectly these days) as in ship’s wheels and anchors, but rather shells, ocean dwellers, and the look of coral. But as any ardent lover of jewelry history knows, themes come and go, so treasures inspired by the sea aren’t a new idea by any means.

Digging a bit deeper into these perfect-for-the-coast baubles, I’ll fill you in on some vintage options that rival what’s newly on the market. After all, one of my forever goals when current styles inspire me is to get them for less money, and there’s almost always a way that vintage can win that race.

Most vintage costume jewelry with a sea theme has been created using plated metalwork and embellished with glass or plastic stones of some sort. There are many designs from the ‘40s ranging from Coro’s rhinestone-laden double clip Duette brooches to Trifari’s “Jelly Belly” sea turtles with clear Lucite bellies. Reja also created shell designs and other sea creatures made of sterling silver. These are very collectible pieces that can be hard to find on a regular basis.

Some easier to locate best-sellers include gold-tone jewelry dating from the ‘60s to the ‘80s. These ocean-inspired pieces always attract folks vacationing near the beach or cruising to tropical locales, whether the runways are featuring them or not. Some particular names to watch for in the moderate price range are Kenneth Jay Lane and Trifari, since Kunio Matsumoto designed some very attractive sea-inspired styles in the ‘70s and ‘80s. You’ll know which ones are Matsumoto since his name appears alongside the Trifari branding.

Many other companies marketed both gold- and silver-plated designs with sea motifs. These include sea stars, seahorses, scallop shells, gilded imitation coral, and even mythological creatures like mermaids. The most affordable ones can be unmarked, but Gem-Craft, Napier, and Florenza offer some reasonable alternatives if you’d rather have a name associated with your jewelry.

Shells and other beach-found objects have been used to craft jewelry since ancient civilizations were stringing them together as beads. In terms of what you might run across as collectibles today, two examples are branch coral and operculum shells in a broad array of designs donned by Victorian women. Even with these antique pieces, there’s some overlap with what the fashionable set is wearing today.

Other natural elements include seashells and mother of pearl used in necklace styles, both of which you’ll find in select Miriam Haskell pieces dating to Lawrence Vrba’s reign as lead designer in the ‘70s. These are usually affordable compared to the more standard Haskell pearl and seed bead designs. During the 1980s, necklaces got bigger, featuring nautilus shells and groupings of smaller seashells in substantial, free-spirited looks that were more widely worn.

Some of those plentiful pieces were marked, but many were not. Even the humble among them can be pretty, and the best can be defined as wearable art. But if they don’t have a brand name attached to them, they often get set aside in thrift bargain bins. If you happen to have one of those you’ve been hanging onto, now would be a good time to think about wearing it.

Since the 1990s, harvesting coral has been restricted, or even banned, in many locations around the world. Red branch coral is a popular type used in jewelry, and the way it’s gleaned from the sea is strictly regulated now. In costume jewelry designs, imitations made of glass and plastics have often been substituted for genuine coral.

If you’re not certain whether the coral in your jewelry is genuine, a qualified gemologist can examine the piece using methods that won’t risk damaging it.

All the motifs and themes I’ve mentioned here have been seen in magazines and online fashion reports in the recent past. Described as “coastal” jewelry and “beachcomber” baubles, most major brands have made pieces inspired by a walk on the shore.

Last year it was gold-tone and silver-colored jewelry in shell shapes. This year, more natural components have been included in designs inspired by the sea. Mainstream brands such as Ralph Lauren and Tory Burch have gotten in on this trend have upscale fashion houses like Chanel.

One look from the past that’s popular again is an authentic seashell pendant dangling from a lengthy cord or a metal collar. Real shells painted with golden accents are also showing up among the fashionable set, as are shells embellished with pearls, especially freshwater examples. And, of course, the look of branch coral has also come back into fashion, but as eco-consciousness grows, most pieces use plastics or enameling to imitate the real deal.
Buying vintage offers a way to get these looks for less than retail, no doubt, and it’s fun to be fashionable for a moment. But truthfully, jewelry treasures inspired by the sea never really go out of style.

Pamela Wiggins Siegel has been buying, selling, and collecting costume jewelry for more than 30 years. She is the author of Warman’s Costume Jewelry (Krause Publications) and the co-founder of Costume Jewelry Collectors Int’l, an organization dedicated to hosting events and providing educational resources for collectors. Visit her online at www.chicantiques.com and www.cjci.co.

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